For everyone following along at home: this website is worth a click if you’ve never seen it before!

Rinsing rice does wonders. Without a rice cooker you’ll need to strain it, but it’s still worth it.

1. Measure rice by volume. Let’s say 2 cups worth
2. Put into fine colendar and rinse until the water comes out clear. Mixing with your hand will speed this up. You can also do this in the pot you’re going to cook in and dump water out
3. Put strained rice in your pot
4. Add cold water. The ratio of water to rice matters a lot and varies by species of rice. The ratio will be printed on whatever container your rice came in. For Jasmin rice it’s 2 water to 1 rice, so for our two cups of rice you’ll need 4 cups of water
5. Cover, turn on medium-high heat, being to boil. Don’t go far because it will boil over when it does boil
6. Turn the heat down to low, crack the lid, and set a timer. The amount of time needed will vary based on rice. For Jasmin, 15 minutes is a good check-in time
7. Pop the lid. See water bubbling up? If yes, replace lid and come back in a few minutes. If not, use a wooden spoon to get a peek at the bottom of the pot. See water? If yes, replace lid and come back fairly soon to check again. If not, your rice is done. Turn the heat off, fluff, enjoy.

We made rice for years using this method and it is a very reliable cooking method. Rice doesn’t really leave you a lot of wiggle room though, which is where a rice cooker comes in handy. As an added bonus, some rice cookers come with water lines in them. I measure my dry rice into the cooker, rinse using the cooker, dump most of the water out, and fill to the appropriate level.

Different species of rice have very different textures and somewhat (subtle) different flavorss.

Some rice, like basmati, can be cooked using the pasta method (intentionally use way too much water and strain the excess off after the rice is cooked). I guess all rice could be cooked that way, but you would be giving up some starch.

That was absolutely the case until very recently. Qualcomm bought Nuvia, a start-up that was stacked with former Apple engineers, a few years ago. These processors are just now coming to market. Laptops with these processors are benchmarking around MacBook levels (slightly behind single core, slightly ahead in multi core).

It’s very hard to argue against Apple hardware and battery life. Maybe with windows moving slowly toward ARM they’ll catch up some. It’s going to be very tough though - Apple has full control over their hardware, which meat they can optimize their OS for it.

I really hope the snapdragon x laptops gain some traction. I recently went laptop shopping and what I wanted (good to great display, stays cold, good battery life) line up really well with a MacBook/MB air. I just couldn’t stomach the stupid mark-ups for memory and storage. I wound up with a Lenovo 7x slim. Upgrading to 32 GB memory and 1 TB storage was around $115. The non-emulated performance on windows is solid. Emulated is generally ok for my usage. I’m probably going to try Linux on it when I have a light week, but I’m somewhat wary of the impact that will have on battery life.

My electric chainsaws and weed whacker always start. Eventually our lawn tractor will kick the bucket and I’ll either convert it to electric or buy one.

Depending where you live, it can be really hard to find ethonal free gas. As an added bonus, carburators hate having ethonal sit in them. They’ll develop a varnish. Carbs also don’t like sitting partially dry and getting all the fuel out of them is a massive pain. Yay lawn equipment.

Both. Ethonal is still corrosive and the majority of fuel systems these days are compatible with E15. That said, check your owners manual.

Thanks for the reply. I can see this being a great way to go for a dedicated farm, which this post is proporting to do, but I am not sure I would want a high tunnel in my yard. I am on the wild-yard side of things and have wildflowers planted along one edge of my property, a milkweed garden, etc. I like to be able to see things growing and am not sure how I would feel about the visual block. I guess you could make one with more long-term transparent sides, but that would cost more $$.

As it is, we often have too large of yeilds when our four 4x8 raised beds really get going. Our issue isn’t yeilds, it’s the narrow width of peek yeild along with a combination of what we grow (not shelf stable) and storage systems (the whole pick early, store so it won’t ripen, and ripen on demand system).

At first I thought that you were talking about growing vertically, but you probably meant something like a green house? Beyond extending the growing season, what else do they do to increase yeilds?

I work at a big company. We have tons and tons of problems to go solve that are getting little attention in addition to having a lot of redundant and/or “what would you say you do here” type positions. Most of this happens by accident, but it’s nearly impossible to unwind and redeploy those teams. My guess is that the big reasons why is because of leadership not wanting to look bad - a mix of “why did you staff this to begin with?” and “why did you let this go on for so long?” When these groups are eventually found during a reorg they tend to be let go vs redeployed, which makes it even harder for the remaining groups to do anything. The cycle is truly silly.

Fellow 2.4 person whose also chiming in on the thread in the lemmy.world instance of this community. My 2.4 doesn’t do this, but it could potentially be klipper related (pressure advance, input shaping, etc).

I agree with your overall sentiment, but I personally find googles fuel savings optimistic and/or flat out misleading. “Hey, you could turn off your usual route here and get there in a similar time… Or you could stay on your usual route and save 2% on gas” seems to be a very frequent occurrence for me.

I also don’t think that needs AI. The pathfinding algorithm just needs to apply different weights to the choices based on things like changes in elevation, number of stop signs, total distance, etc. Navigation systems from yester-year could do this well before the prevalence of AI. That said, AI can be used to develop and/or tune these algorithms instead of having a dedicated team of humans focused on this specific area.

Your maximum nozzle diameter depends on your extruder. Most printers run one of a few fairly standard designs. It wouldn’t surprise me if there are larger diameter nozzles made for your extruder, but they’re not marketed for your printer.

Welcome to the club! It sounds like you know what to search for, so you’re off to a good start. If you haven’t found it already, Ellis’ print tuning guide will give you a good foundation for tuning your printer well.

It looks like you have an Ultrabase bed, or at least something very similar. I had one on my i3 clone and it served me well for a number of years.

As you discovered, prints will stick to it well if it’s clean. Dish soap and IPA (use the 90+% stuff) do a decent job of cleaning it. Windex also works well for keeping it fresh. Prints will easily release after the bed is cool, especially after the bed gets some miles on it. I’m betting the prior owner either had trouble with their first layer sticking or releasing - glue sticks are used by some for both scenarios. Proper first layer squish, a slow first layer, a clean bed, and a cool bed are all it really takes unless you’re printing something like ABS/ASA and then your first step should probably be an enclosure, not an adhesion promoter.

Certification to be a bartender? Where at? I worked in the restaurant business for a decent amount of time when I was younger. The restaurant I worked at had a training regime for bartenders so they would learn how to pour accurately and learn the recipes for a ton of drinks, but it wasn’t mandated by the government. Front of house staff from several establishments in the area would hang out and our restaurants were far more lax.

I am not familiar with your model of printer, but from looking at Google it looks like it’s a typical FDM printer with a spring steel bed. These beds follow this pattern

• Spring steel on top
• Adhesive magnetic below that
• Aluminum bed below that
• Heater below that

So your heater is just fine and you gouged the magnet. I would remove any high points from the magnetic layer, so it doesn’t push the spring steel up in that area, and carry on.

I’m currently running polymaker ASA. It’s not cheap, but it’s not that out of the ordinary price wise for ASA. I am somewhat tempted to give Atomic Filament’s ABS a go since they were one of my go to PETG companies and their filament was super consistent. Polymaker’s ASA has been fairly solid other than the fairly different printing needs of different colors, which is something I haven’t experienced on other types of filament before. Maybe that’s normal for ASA though.

I’m running a bedfan/filter combo called “the filter”. It’s drastically reduced chamber heating times for me. No idea if theres a version out there for your printer, but there might be given it’s popularity and similarities with the Voron trident.

100 bed is pretty reasonable. 260/270 seems pretty toasty, but if it works it works.

Do you have a bedslinger, CoreXY, or something else? Bedfans made a world of difference for chamber heating rate. There are a number of bedfan and active carbon combinations that I’ve found to be fairly effective at chamber heating and reducing odors.

Are you recently enclosed? If yes, beware that everything will expand enough to throw off your first layer if you don’t accommodate for it.

I’ve only run ASA so far, but even sticking with the same brand I’ve noticed that different colors have very different temperature and extrusion multiplier needs. Prior to ASA I stuck with PETG and I used the same settings for any color but white.

As a Voron owner, I kind of echo this but the build is kind of intense. BOM in a box kits make sourcing easier, but even with my (lightly modded) 2.4 it took me about two months of part time chippy away at it. The printer quality and speed are great, as are stock quality of life things (mechanical bed leveling that actually levels the bed)